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CULTURE

CULTURE

The taste of the lake

Once cooked on the bows of boats with little more than salt and flame, Baiyangdian's fish feast still carries the spirit of a life lived on the water, Deng Zhangyu reports in Xiong'an.

By Deng Zhangyu????|????CHINA DAILY????|???? Updated: 2026-04-30 08:18

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Signature dishes include salted duck eggs and stewed fish. [PHOTO BY DENG ZHANGYU/CHINA DAILY]

Then there are the salted duck eggs with red, oily yolks. The ducks swim freely in the lake, eating water plants, shellfish, and small fish. Their eggs are rich and deeply flavorful. Pairing one with a bowl of cornmeal congee is simple, satisfying and the truest taste of a water town morning.

Once, fishermen didn't go home to eat. They would build a fire on the boat's bow, cooking their catch on the spot. A pinch of salt and a few drops of vinegar created the ultimate flavor.

Today, life is better. Roads have been built, and the boats are faster, but the rules of the fish feast haven't changed: the fish must be wild from the lake, the shrimp must come straight from the cage, and the greens must be picked by the water's edge. Without Baiyangdian's water, no amount of skill can re-create that freshness.

Shang says Baiyangdian's food has no secrets but only heart. Guarding this clear lake, catching its fish and shrimp, and bringing the freshest ingredients to the table with the simplest methods — that's how they honor this water.

Signature dishes include salted duck eggs and stewed fish. [PHOTO BY DENG ZHANGYU/CHINA DAILY]

This is Baiyangdian's fish feast. Every fish, every shrimp, every lotus leaf and root carries the lake's cool clarity. It's not a lavish banquet, but it is nature's most generous gift.

Only by sitting next to the water, eating what has been taken from the lake, can you truly understand the taste of Baiyangdian. 

If you go

It takes about an hour by high-speed train from Beijing to Baiyangdian, or a 30-minute drive from Xiong'an city center to the lake. Summer and autumn are the best seasons to visit. Restaurants across Xiong'an and villages around Baiyangdian Lake serve the signature fish feast. Priced at around 400 yuan ($58.5) per set, it typically serves up to 10 people.

Signature dishes include cornmeal cakes with shrimp and a delicacy made from fish scales. [PHOTO BY DENG ZHANGYU/CHINA DAILY]
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